Growing Tip

When caring for tuberous begonias, go easy on the water; tuberous begonias have a tendency to rot fairly easily, and don't require a great deal of water.

Rose Cultivation: Spring Care

Usually by the first of April, the weather has warmed sufficiently to allow removal of the protective mulch that you applied the previous November. Simply spread the mulch out around the base of the plant. Once that is done, prune back the canes to a length of about 12 inches for Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas. Remove any dead or damaged wood, and any wood that may be growing out of the center of the plant. Leave three or four of the newest and best canes. With English, Old Garden, and Climbing roses, prune the bushes back by about 1/3, removing some of the oldest wood to allow room for new. Rake in the mulch, and apply a new top coat of mulch, if necessary. You can apply a dormant oil spray at this time, but it is not strictly necessary, if the plants have been maintained well.

IMPORTANT: Do NOT fertilize roses until they begin to get their first leaves!! Doing so will burn the delicate feeder roots that are forming at this time of year. Wait until the plants begin to leaf-out before feeding them. It is a good idea to dilute the rose food to half-strength (1-1/2 TEAspoon per gallon of water) for the first feeding of the year. Feed the plants with one quart of this formula when they begin to leaf-out. Two weeks later, feed them again at full-strength (1 TABLEspoon per gallon of water), again using one quart per plant. From here, continue feeding them at full-strength every two weeks until they begin to bloom, then go to a regular feeding schedule of every 10 days, and begin the summer care routine anew.

If you follow the basic principles that I have outlined in this essay, you should have absolutely beautiful roses for many, many years!

- Clint

Previous: Preparing for Winter <

Rose Cultivation: Preparing for Winter

Winter care of roses is every bit as important as summer care. Fortunately, it is even easier to do:

The first step in preparing your roses for winter is to stop feeding them when the last week of August rolls around, as outlined in the previous section. This will allow any new growth to harden before first frost sets in. From here, continue to care for them by removing spent blooms, etc. When November comes, it is time to apply a protective mulch. Simply pile up mulch over the base of the plant to a height of 12 inches. This will protect the canes from the cold, drying winds of winter. This is a very important step, because if roses aren't mulched, the cold winter weather will almost always kill the canes right down to the ground. With climbing roses, remove the canes from the trellis supports, and lay them on the ground. Cover the entire length of the canes with mulch.

I do not recommend cutting roses back until spring. While many reference books advocate the cutting-back of roses before winter, it has been my experience that doing so will simply allow frost into the cut ends of the canes, thereby making die-back of the canes more likely. Leave the plants unpruned until spring.

Previous: Summer Care < | > Next: Spring Care

Rose Cultivation: Summer Care

Once your roses are planted, they will need occasional maintenance. Keeping roses healthy is not as difficult as some people would have you believe if you put them on a regular maintenance schedule, and stick to it. The three main things that have to be done are: feeding, spraying, and pruning of the spent flowers. I have outlined the procedures below:

While there are a lot of fertilizers out there, we always recommend using Miracle-Gro^® rose food, or Peters^® rose food. Both have nearly identical formulations, are water-soluble, and we have used both with great success. Through much experimentation, I have found that one of the best ways to feed roses is to mix up one TABLESPOON of rose food in a gallon of water. Once that is mixed, dump one QUART of that solution around the base of each plant every 10 days. Try to feed the plants when you know that there will be no rain for 24 hours afterward. This will allow the fertilizer to get down to the roots, and will allow the plants time to take up the fertilizer. By putting roses on a schedule like this, it will keep them in tip-top shape, and will enable them to fight against diseases such as Mildew and Blackspot with their own, inherent disease resistance. It will also aid in producing high quality blooms and luxuriant foliage. During periods of extended drought, I would recommend watering the plants mid-way between feedings with approximately a half-gallon of clear water - maybe a little more, if rainfall is in really short supply. Try to keep the foliage as dry as possible when watering - again, this will help guard against fungus diseases. Note: It is advisable to cease feeding roses during the last week of August. This will give any new growth time to harden before the onset of first frost.

The next item on the agenda is spraying. If you keep your plants fed (as outlined above), fungus diseases really shouldn't be too much of a problem, but insects will be. Again, there are a lot of pesticides out there, but the one that we use with great success is Orthene.^® It can be tough to find, but it does a good job. It is a systemic insecticide, meaning, that it is absorbed into the plant's system, and enables the plant to fight-off insects from within. Use it at the maximum recommended dosage, at the recommended spray intervals (per label directions), and spray in the evening, after the sun has gone down. Spraying plants in full sun is a sure-fire way to burn the foliage. I recommend spraying in the evening (as opposed to the morning), because the plants will still be in active photosynthesis, allowing them to absorb the pesticide more readily. As with feeding, try to spray when you know that there will not be any rain for 24 hours afterward, otherwise the pesticide will be washed away. It should be noted that overdosing plants, either by using too high of a dosage or by spraying too frequently, can result in a condition known as phytotoxicity. When this condition occurs, the plants will be defoliated. It is usually not fatal to the plant, but it will definitely set them back, and will make them look hideous!

One insect that can be a real problem in our part of the country is the Japanese beetle. They are especially attracted to the light-colored flowers, and there really isn't any pesticide that I know of that will control them to any great degree. About the best thing that you can do to control beetles is to use Japanese beetle traps, placing them well away from your plants. Placing them too close to the plants, naturally, will just draw the beetles to the roses.

As I mentioned before, if you keep your roses fed, and keep the foliage dry, fungus diseases shouldn't be much of a problem. If your roses do develop Mildew or Blackspot, one of the more commonly recommended fungicides is Funginex.^® Again, follow the label directions, and spray in the evening, after sunset. It may require several applications (following the label's recommended schedule) to eradicate the disease.

If all of this sounds like a lot of work, it really isn't, when put into practice. If you would like to try cutting down on the time involved in caring for your plants, there are combination products on the market. These products consist of a time-release fertilizer combined with a pesticide, and you apply them around the base of the plants every few weeks. Personally, I prefer using separate fertilizer and pesticide because it allows me to fine-tune the growing environment a little better. This is a matter of personal preference, ultimately.

NOTE: ALL PESTICIDES AND FUNGICIDES ARE POISONOUS TO HUMANS AND ANIMALS. HANDLE THEM WITH CARE, AND ALWAYS FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS!

The last part of the summer-care routine is the pruning of the spent flowers. The professional cut-flower growers usually cut the stems back to the second five-leaflet leaf from the bloom. Starting at the bloom itself, follow the stem down until you encounter the first five-leaflet leaf. You would then make your cut below this leaf, about a quarter-inch above the next leaf. This is the point from which the next stem will grow. Another easier-to-remember way is to just cut the stem to half of its length, about a quarter-inch above a strong leaf. Both of these methods will work well. With English and Old Garden roses, you can prune back to the first five-leaflet leaf - they are happy with a little less pruning.

Previous: Planting < | > Next: Preparing for Winter

Rose Cultivation: Planting

When you purchase rose bushes from Rustic Hideaway, they will already be in active growth in their own pots. The first thing that you want to do is select where you are going to plant your new roses. Soil requirements of roses are much the same as other ornamental shrubs: decent, fertile soil that is neither too heavy (clay), nor too light (sandy), and is well-drained. Roses do not like soil that is too wet.

Another important factor is the amount of sun that they will receive. While most reference books recommend a minimum of 4-6 hours of sun per day, you can make adjustments to this to provide either higher-quality blooms, or higher-QUANTITY blooms. In general, if a rose planting receives 4-6 hours of sun per day, MAXIMUM, the plant will produce very high-quality flowers. Once you get beyond this exposure range, the number of flowers will increase, but at the expense of the quality of the bloom, with most varieties. It should be noted that roses need at least four hours of sun per day, however. It all has to do with the average temperature of the growing environment. Professional growers, who grow roses for the cut-flower market, aim for a daytime average high of 72° F, and a nighttime low of 60° F. This is why the amount of sunlight is so important to the quality of the flowers.

The next thing to take into consideration is the planting depth. One common mistake that people make when planting a new rose is planting them too shallow - usually only as deep as the soil level in the pot. I will repeat: This is too shallow in most cases! In our climate, a rose bush should be planted with the bud union approximately one inch BELOW soil level:

Click photo for larger image

The above photo shows the proper planting depth for a new rose plant. Take note that the bud union (or graft) is the swollen part that the canes originate from. It is necessary to plant them at this depth to help protect the graft of the plant from being frozen-out during the winter months.

When planting a new rose, it is advisable to check the planting depth before removing the plant from the pot. Once the hole is dug, set the plant - pot and all - in the hole, and adjust the depth as necessary. When you're at the proper depth, and ready to plant the rose, cut the bottom of the pot off first. Then set the plant in the hole, and carefully make a cut up the side of the pot. Spread the pot, and carefully lift it out of the hole. These steps are necessary to keep from disturbing the root ball. From here, fill the hole approximately three-fourths (or a little more) of the way with soil, and dump in a gallon of clear water. Once the water dissipates, fill the hole the rest of the way with soil.

Once the rose is planted, it is a good idea to apply a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant. This will help conserve moisture, keep weeds down, and keep the roots cool (there's that temperature thing, again). Check the plant every day to make sure that it doesn't wilt. Water only if necessary. It usually takes two to two-and-a-half weeks for a rose plant to become established.

Previous: Intro < | > Next: Summer Care

The Cultivation of the Rose

We always receive a lot of questions about the requirements of growing roses. This tutorial is designed to hopefully seperate myth from fact, and to clear up any confusion that may surround the cultivation of the Rose. Please note that some of these instructions are intended specifically for those who grow roses in our local area (Western Pennsylvania, zones 5 and colder). Note also that these instructions relate only to Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, and their larger brethren. Miniature roses require much the same care as these, but will be covered in an upcoming essay.

> Next: Planting

Please note that, for the foreseeable future, Rustic Hideaway will no longer be stocking rose bushes.

Exposure Requirements: Perennials

Below are listed the exposure requirements for many of the most popular perennials:

Agastache: Sun
Asclepias: Sun
Astilbe: Full to partial shade
Baptisia: Sun to light shade
Buddleia (Butterfly Bush): Sun
Campanula: Sun to part shade
Candytuft: Sun
Centaurea: Sun
Chrysanthemum: Sun to part shade
Columbine: Sun to part shade
Coreopsis: Sun
Delphinium: Sun to part shade
Dianthus: Sun
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart): Shade to part shade
Digitalis (Foxglove): Sun to part shade
Echinacea (Coneflower): Sun
English Daisy: Sun to part shade
Gaillardia: Sun to part shade
Geranium (hardy): Sun to part shade
Hemerocallis (Daylily): Sun to part shade
Heuchera (Coral Bells): Sun to part shade
Hollyhock: Sun
Hosta: Full to partial shade
Kniphofia (Redhot Poker Plant): Sun
Liatris: Sun to part shade
Lobelia (hardy): Part shade
Lupinus (Lupine): Sun to light shade
Malva: Sun
Monarda (Bee Balm): Sun to part shade
Obedient Plant: Sun to part shade
Oenothera (Evening Primrose): Sun
Phlox: Sun to part shade
Platycodon (Ballon Flower): Sun to light shade
Poppy: Sun to part shade
Rudbeckia: Sun
Salvia: Sun to part shade
Scabiosa (Pincushion Flower): Sun to part shade
Sedum: Sun
Shasta Daisy: Sun
Snow-in-Summer: Sun
Verbascum: Sun

Annuals <

Exposure Requirements: Annuals

Below are listed the exposure requirements for many of the most popular annuals:

Ageratum: Sun to part shade
Alyssum: Sun
Annual Phlox: Sun to part shade
Bacopa: Sun to part shade
Begonia (tuberous): Shade
Begonia (fiberous):
   Bronze Leaf: Sun or shade
   Green Leaf: Shade
Begonia (Angel Wing): Filtered sun to partial shade
Cabbage (ornamental): Sun
Calibrachoa (Million Bells): Sun
Celosia: Sun
Cobaea (Cup-and-Saucer Vine): Sun
Coleus: Shade
Cosmos: Sun
Dahlia: Sun
Dianthus: Sun to part shade
Diascia: Sun to part shade
Dusty Miller (standard): Sun to part shade
Dusty Miller (vining): Sun to part shade
Gazania: Sun
Geranium (ivy): Sun to part shade
Geranium (Regal): Partial sun (Regal geraniums dislike excessive heat)
Geranium (standard): Sun
Gerbera Daisy: Sun
Gomphrena: Sun
Fuchsia: Shade
Helichrysum: Sun
Heliotrope: Sun
Impatiens (standard): Shade
Impatiens (New Guinea): Sun to part shade
Iresine: Part shade
Lantana: Sun
Lobelia: Sun to part shade
Marigold: Sun
Morning Glory: Sun to part shade
Nasturtium: Sun to part shade
Nemesia: Sun to part shade
Nierembergia: Sun to part shade
Nicotiana: Sun
Osteospermum (African Daisy): Sun
Pansy: Sun to part shade (pansies like cool weather best)
Petunia: Sun
Portulaca: Sun
Rudbeckia: Sun
Salvia (Sage): Sun
Snapdragon: Sun to part shade
Spikes: Sun to part shade
Strobilanthes: Sun to part shade
Swan River Daisy: Sun to part shade
Sweet Potato Vine: Sun to part shade
Thunbergia (Black-Eyed Susan Vine): Sun
Torenia: Shade
Verbena: Sun
Vinca (Periwinkle): Sun
Vinca (vine): Sun to part shade
Viola (hardy annual): Sun to part shade
Zinnia: Sun to part shade

> Perennials

Plant Profile Archives

Below you will find listed all of the Plant Profiles on this site:

Cardinal Flower
Iresine H. Brilliantissima
Redhot Poker Plant

This page last updated on April 27, 2005

Growing Tip Archives

Below you will find listed all of the Growing Tips on this site. I'll add them as I write 'em:

Watering Tuberous Begonias
Lilac Blossoms
Watering Hanging Baskets
Peonies and Ants
Sprayer Maintenance
Salvaging Frosted Plants

This page last updated on April 28, 2005

Welcome to Rustic Hideaway!

Welcome to our website!

We are a retail greenhouse business located in Apollo, Pennsylvania. Our inventory features a complete selection of annuals, perennials, vegetable plants, roses, and many unique and hard-to-find items.

We are not equipped to take online orders at this time, but we may add this capability in the future.

Updates will be forthcoming.

Thanks for stopping by!