Tuesday, February 22, 2005

Rose Cultivation: Spring Care

Usually by the first of April, the weather has warmed sufficiently to allow removal of the protective mulch that you applied the previous November. Simply spread the mulch out around the base of the plant. Once that is done, prune back the canes to a length of about 12 inches for Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas. Remove any dead or damaged wood, and any wood that may be growing out of the center of the plant. Leave three or four of the newest and best canes. With English, Old Garden, and Climbing roses, prune the bushes back by about 1/3, removing some of the oldest wood to allow room for new. Rake in the mulch, and apply a new top coat of mulch, if necessary. You can apply a dormant oil spray at this time, but it is not strictly necessary, if the plants have been maintained well.

IMPORTANT: Do NOT fertilize roses until they begin to get their first leaves!! Doing so will burn the delicate feeder roots that are forming at this time of year. Wait until the plants begin to leaf-out before feeding them. It is a good idea to dilute the rose food to half-strength (1-1/2 TEAspoon per gallon of water) for the first feeding of the year. Feed the plants with one quart of this formula when they begin to leaf-out. Two weeks later, feed them again at full-strength (1 TABLEspoon per gallon of water), again using one quart per plant. From here, continue feeding them at full-strength every two weeks until they begin to bloom, then go to a regular feeding schedule of every 10 days, and begin the summer care routine anew.

If you follow the basic principles that I have outlined in this essay, you should have absolutely beautiful roses for many, many years!

- Clint

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